The Only Knives You Really Need in Your Kitchen
There’s a funny thing about knives: the more you cook, the fewer of them you actually use.
Like a lot of people, I started with the full set — a full roll of seven blades, all carefully selected for culinary school. They looked impressive. They were expensive. And for a while, I assumed I’d need all of them regularly.
In the 26 years since I went to culinary school, here’s the honest truth:
I use maybe 3 or 4 knives with any consistency. The rest? Dust collectors.
So if you’re just starting to build your home kitchen — or if you’re staring down a cluttered knife drawer wondering what’s actually worth keeping — this post is for you.
First: Please Don’t Buy a Knife Block Set
If you take nothing else from this article, let it be this:
Knife block sets are 80% filler and 20% knives you’ll actually use.
They almost always include cheap versions of knives you don’t need, won’t use, or won’t be able to maintain. You’re better off investing in fewer, better tools — the ones you’ll reach for every day.
So… What Do You Actually Need?
After decades of professional and home cooking, here’s what I’ve learned:
🔪 If you can only buy one knife:
Get a high-quality 8" chef’s knife — ideally forged, full-tang, with a comfortably contoured handle and a bit of heft.
Look for a wide or tall blade profile (deeper from spine to edge) for better safety and control.
My personal go-to? The Wüsthof Classic Wide 8" Chef’s Knife. It’s balanced, rock-solid, and handles everything from herbs to heavy root veg with ease.
🔪 If you can buy two:
Add a 6" utility knife — the unsung hero of most home kitchens. It’s the perfect in-between size: not as bulky as a chef’s knife, but far more useful than a paring knife.
🔪 If you want a third:
You’ve got a few good options depending on your needs:
A bread knife, if you slice a lot of crusty loaves
An 8" santoku, if you want something lighter or more maneuverable than a traditional chef’s knife
A second 6" utility knife, honestly — because someone always leaves the first one in the sink
I rotate between two Santoku knives often: the Wüsthof Ikon 7", which I was gifted and really enjoy for its handle comfort and balance, and the Wüsthof Classic 7" Santoku, which I originally bought for my kids to learn on. Both get regular use, especially when my chef’s knife is otherwise occupied.
Forged knife on top, stamped on bottom
🔧 Sidebar: Forged vs. Stamped — and Why “Full-Tang” Can Be Misleading
Stamped knives are cut from a flat sheet of steel — cheaper, lighter, and often flimsier in the hand. Forged knives, on the other hand, are hammered into shape under high heat, which gives them better balance, strength, and long-term durability.
You’ll often hear “full-tang” used as a marker of quality — and while it’s generally a good thing (meaning the metal runs through the entire handle), don’t be fooled by stamped knives that look full-tang. Some stamped models have a visible metal spine but still lack the strength and weight of a forged build.
Instead, look for a true bolster — the thicker junction where the blade meets the handle. It’s a hallmark of forged construction and offers better grip, control, and longevity. You can see the difference in the image below:
Forged on top, stamped on bottom - note the “full tang” on both
What Makes a Knife Worth Owning?
Here’s what actually matters in a great everyday kitchen knife:
Forged blade with full-tang construction
Comfortable handle with a solid bolster
8" blade length for chef’s knife, 6" for utility knife
Taller blade profile for knuckle clearance and safety
Synthetic handles are my personal preference for lower maintenance and durability
What About All the “Fancy” Features?
Let’s clear the air on a few common marketing bells and whistles:
❌ Granton (scalloped) edges
Meant to reduce friction, but in my experience, they don’t help food release any better.
❌ Hollow-ground bevels
Nice when new, but hard to maintain evenly over time — especially at home.
❌ Damascus patterns
Beautiful, yes — but purely decorative. They don’t enhance performance.
✅ Steel type — Why I Prefer German Over Japanese
Japanese steel: sharper edge out of the box, but more brittle and harder to maintain
German steel: slightly softer, but much easier to care for long-term — and more forgiving
I stick with Wüsthof’s Classic line, and would happily recommend their Ikon line as well for comfort and finish. Another solid choice is Global — their “Model X” 8" chef’s knife is a worthy alternative. It’s lighter, has a seamless stainless steel handle, and offers a very different (but equally effective) feel in the hand.
My trusty, decades-old Wusthof Classic bread knife
🍞 Bread Knives: My Personal Dilemma
For years, I questioned whether a fancy bread knife was worth owning at all.
Why? Because they’re:
Hard to sharpen properly (especially at home)
Frustrating when dull — particularly with crusty breads like sourdough
Not something most people reach for every day
I’ve often thought about just buying cheaper bread knives and replacing them more often... but then I remember:
My “fancy” bread knife has lasted 26+ years.
So while it’s not essential for everyone, if you’re slicing bread regularly, it’s worth considering a quality serrated knife — just be realistic about its limitations, and sharpen it professionally from time to time.
From top to bottom: my go-to Wusthof Classic Wide 8” Chef’s Knife (on top), Ikon 7” Santoku, Classic 7” Santoku, and el-cheapo Henckels Stamped Santoku
Chef’s Knife vs. Santoku: What’s the Difference?
Both are versatile, all-purpose knives — but they’re built differently.
🔪 Traditional Chef’s Knife (German style)
Curved blade for rocking cuts
Heavier, more balanced
Excellent all-rounder for most prep
Best for: people who want one knife that can do it all
🔪 Santoku Knife
Flatter edge, better for up-down chopping
Lighter and more maneuverable
Often better for smaller hands
Best for: precision slicing, or cooks who want a nimble complement to their chef’s knife
Bottom line: I like having both. But if I could only choose one, I’d stick with the Wüsthof Classic Wide 8" Chef’s Knife.
And What About the Rest of That Knife Roll From Culinary School?
Let’s be honest — most of the knives culinary students are required to buy rarely get used again.
Here’s my real-world review:
Paring knife: Too small to be useful, too delicate to be fast
Boning knife: Only helpful if you regularly break down raw meat
Fillet knife: Great for filleting your own fish — but I don’t have time for that
Turning knife: A relic from a different era. Think French veg carving.
10" chef’s knife: Great for carving large roasts or slicing pizza or focaccia — but not essential
Chinese cleaver: NOT from culinary school…LOL. Fun occasionally — but realistically? A niche tool
🔧 Knife Maintenance: Use is Only Half the Equation
Even the best knife will disappoint you if it’s dull. Sharpness isn’t just about speed — it’s about safety, control, and making your prep feel effortless.
🔪 Handheld honing rods are helpful — but not enough
A few quick strokes on a honing rod (whether metal, ceramic, or diamond) can help realign a slightly off-centre edge, but they don’t truly sharpen a dull blade. Most home cooks either skip this step, use it incorrectly, or rely on it far too long.
Eventually, you’ll need to restore the edge — not just “tune” it.
⚡ My pick? A quality electric sharpener
I use the Chef’s Choice Trizor XV, and I recommend it without hesitation. It makes proper edge restoration accessible for home use and gives consistent, reliable results — without needing to master sharpening stones or spend money sending knives out.
For most people, it hits the sweet spot:
✅ Simple to use
✅ Produces a sharp, durable edge
✅ Pays for itself over time
🧪 How do you know when it’s time?
If your knife slides off a tomato instead of slicing through it with minimal pressure?
It’s time.
If you find yourself sawing through chicken or squash instead of gliding through it?
Also time.
Depending on how often you cook, a good rule of thumb is to sharpen every 3–6 months for your main knife(s). Honing in between can help extend the time between full sharpenings — but only up to a point.
If you’re avoiding prep because the knife feels like a chore? Don’t blame the knife. Blame the edge — and fix it.
🧼 Knife Storage (or: Yes, You Still Need a Knife Block — Kind Of)
No matter how sharp your knives are, they won’t stay that way if you treat them like junk. And nothing dulls a blade faster than tossing it loose in a drawer to clatter around with the can opener and kitchen shears.
So yes, you still need a “knife block” — but it doesn’t have to be a block. A few good options:
A traditional wooden knife block (just skip the full set that comes with it)
An in-drawer knife tray
Blade sleeves or edge guards, if you’re short on space and need to just lay them in a drawer
A magnetic wall strip, mounted securely
Whatever you choose, the rule is simple:
Protect the edge. Don’t let it bang into anything. And don’t store it resting on the blade edge.
Also — and I can’t stress this enough — never put your knives in the dishwasher.
Even the good ones will get destroyed over time. Harsh detergents, heat, and other utensils knocking around are a fast track to dull edges and cracked handles. Just wash them by hand, dry immediately, and store properly. Your future self (and your fingers) will thank you.
Final Word: Buy Less, Use More, Sharpen Often
Forget the full block set.
Forget the gimmicks.
Focus on a few knives you’ll use every day — and maintain them well.
In the 26 years since I went to culinary school, I’ve collected more knives than I care to count. But I keep coming back to the same few — because they do the job, they do it well, and they do it every single day.
And that, to me, is what makes a knife worth having.